so that means the head isn't overly flycut that answered a lot, and yes the fins are complete (well 2 corners chipped off) but complete and not needing the bottom fin removed like excessive flycutting does. valve notching the pistons but to get some cc's not cuz id hit the valves sounds interestingĪnother option I found is. Hmmm so it means a larger than ideal deck is ok. yes the ports aren't huge, the entry is slightly oval (not wedge or eyebrowed lol) and the inner casting mark inside about half an inch into the port is still visible Marc, you've touched some excellent points. so running anything smaller would mean the cylinder walls would be in the way of the chamber LOL Im not concerned with cylinder/piston life.Īs mentioned the heads are deshrouded to 94s. Thinking of using this, since the guides ,springs and the rest are almost new Or are they left to be used on 1/4 mile short stints only?Īprox 80-100miles use, then my friend's fan grenade LOL, disassembled the engine and went with 044s after Nothing wild, but would probably see 7laps of racing once a month Looking to try a 94x74, as a semi daily semi roadracing/circuit motor Would the removal of such mass cause less ability to dissipate heat? If the heads seem to be flycut atleast 0.100 maybe 0.120" given that it is a 041 not a 040 Given that the 040 might be a lil different than the 041, I suppose the 041 was close to a 044 combustion thickness My question is, based on some online chart/figures ive seen The cc is okay, as I know I can get a few more cc's from it if needed (when setting compression) It has 38.2cc on the chambers, with a little bit of unshrouding done to it I have a set of (pair of) 041s hand ported heads with 40x35.5 valves I like to pop them out put a nice finish on the aluminum surface then pop them back in and take the prechambers down as close as i can to the aluminum surface without touching it with that wheel.I figured id post this question here, as there are more road/circuit based people here (udo and others) plus overall, more vw guys driving long distances When milling the cutter reacts differently to the harder material and screws up your finish, especially if your auto feeding, when grinding you should be using a different wheel for the aluminum than the steel. I must enjoy the breeze from my zipper being down but have had no problems and had engine with my machined head go 300k and still climbing! Also as for machining with them in, frankly i wouldn't let you near my tools or machines! Iconel or stainless machine differently than aluminum. 0005 or less not flush but slightly protruding. Quote from: BigVWman on October 18, 2011, 09:36:14 am When i say they should protrude slightly i am thinking order of. Here is my hand abrasion setup, a bit crude, but fully functional and calibrated with newspaper to remove natural sag in 3 sheets of plate glass on bench: Machine minimal, but enough to allow contact round the cylinders, and not as I did as I watched the symetrical abrasion patterns emerging. Much warpage is in the surface, where it has turned to jelly and reset. Leave the manifolds on and tight if possible. Only when released from the block and removed from the intake and exhaust manifold does further shape changing take place. But my own opinion, is that with a failed head gasket, whilst still on the engine the warpage is in the interface and not carried through to the cam carriers. My hand-abraded head is clearly done with skilled arms, Dewarping a head is a complex issue. There can be no better holder of a precup that a purpose built aluminium home. If the tool is knocking them out then job is being rushed. Removing intact precups is just shoddy work skills that are inviting trouble. A head bolt or even stud is not capable of extruding the gasket in the metal regions. How can it seal on the stepped interface for either fiber or metal. Protruding precups are like walking around with your flies undone.
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